Away from the busy Portland highway, and further into the rural community of Buff bay, Jamaica, is what may at first glance look like just another rural community. Upon entering Asafu Yard, however, you will find the Charlestown Maroon community and museum. Here the sun shines over the hills that wraps around the community like a protective mother. As you enter the yard, you get a feeling of awe, of wonder, and safety. Carved in the wooden walls of the museum are faces of black women and men, some with muscles so pronounced that you surmise they must have been warriors. I couldn’t help but wonder if I was walking on the same dirt that warriors walked on centuries ago. Here must be somewhere special.

A portion of the hills surrounding the Charlestown Maroon village

Special it is indeed, for this is a settlement of some of the Maroons of Jamaica, Africans and their descendants who escaped slavery from the English who had captured Jamaica from the Spanish in 1655. The Africans escaped to these and other protective hilly areas in Jamaica and fought to keep and call these places home. This past weekend,22nd – 23rd June 2019, their surviving descendants and other Jamaicans demonstrated some of their culture in the 11^th Annual Charlestown Maroon Conference and Festival under the theme “Peace”.

Cultural food, like jerk chicken and sweet potato pudding, and jewelry were available to dazzle the eyes and stomach but the highlight of this event, however, was the performances. The staple instrument was the drum. As black hands moved across the goat skin covered tool, the

rhythms vibrated out into the crowd, who was drawn in by these pulsating sounds which seemed to echo into the crowd, into ones soul, over the hills and over to Africa, which echoed back.

I can imagine the ancestors would have been proud to see the Capoeira Cativeiro Jamaica group, as they showcased Maroon culture from Brazil. They performed a dance honoring the Brazilian warrior who was believed to have gain victory in combat, using just two sticks. They also showed how the Brazilian Maroons would disguise their mixed martial arts practice with the sound of drumming in the background and showcased their fun Samba dance. Thus, showing that the fighting spirit of African runaway slaves was not limited to the Caribbean.

Members of the Capoeira Cativeiro Jamaica showing mixed martial arts of Brazilian Maroons (left) and the Samba dance (right)

Following them were performances by the Alpha Beta Drummers, a company of children drummers from Buff Bay, led by a charismatic instructor. The children arrested the audience’s attention with their expertise. Their hands were deft and nimble, and beats and pulses flowed from them as easy as breathing. Soon after their performance was that of the Rastafari Indigenous Village which led the audience in a chant session to remind us “Mother Earth is I and I home!” and should therefore be cared for. As night dance in so too did more celebration, with the Charlestown Maroon Drummers and Dancers Youth. Older men continued to call out African based rhythms from their drums and voices, as the children responded with their voices and the swish-swish of their feet.

But this auspicious occasion was also one of proud reminder of our African descendants who had fought to maintain their freedom. From speeches and conversation, I also gained several gems. From the Kernel Marcia Douglas, the current Maroon community leader, I learnt that she has a great responsibility to ensure that the younger generation learns and practice the traditions of their fore parents. From Gaa’maa Gloria “Mau Mau G’ Sims, a wiry and agile looking Rastafarian grandmother, I learnt that obeah is not merely her passion but a way of life. According to Kernel Marcia, our ancestors used this magical art for healing and in battle to mesmerize their opponent, not for malicious intent, as some do today. From Kasike Nibonri Kaiman Yukayeke Yamaye Quani, a Jamaican Taino chief who was invited to be the keynote speaker, I also learnt a valuable lesson. He used a demonstration of what can be described as the circle of life to show how dependent we are on each other and how adults have a responsibility to keep our communities together.

 Kasike Nibonri Kaiman Yukayeke Yamaye Quani’s circle of life demonstration

 

In the end, I can not say anything short of this being a great experience, which brought a deeper appreciation of an important aspect of the Jamaican culture. As we celebrated the bravery of Maroons, we were called to remember people like Quao, the “Invisible Hunter” and Maroon military leader. He was able to attack his enemies as fast as lightning and disappear just as seamlessly into bushes. Yes, the Maroons were a people of fighting because they did not escape to the hills unbothered. The bushes of the mountain became their war ground as they staved off raids by European slavers. They had to protect their families and slaves that had sought refuge from them. The huge village pot in their museum showed ,even more, that they were people of community and I was told that even today, they still dance together on Friday nights and tell stories under the stars.

The Maroon descendants now live peacefully on their claimed lands, but today they still call their leader a Kernel. This to me, is a reminder of the fighting and courageous spirit of their ancestors. Today the Kernel is more of a peacemaker and holds the community together, just as I am sure the very first Kernel did.

All in all, today, I witnessed the resilience of a people, who though taken from their homeland in Ghana and other parts of Africa, recognized that the true heart of a man is to be free, and were determined to fight for their freedom and cherish it. I am proud to be from African descent and I am proud to be a part of a people who hold freedom dear.

 

Keep peace, love, and laughter in you’ heart and walk good.

*Note that the opinions expressed here are those of the blogger and not those of management.

Sources:

Eyewitness coverage and opinions of 11th Annual Charlestown Maroon Conference and Festival

Images captured by writer, unless otherwise stated

Jis.gov.jm – The History of Jamaica